With the intention of joining some friends for a rock climbing weekend at one of our favorite crags, Yongseo Pokpo ("Forgiveness Waterfall), my friend Sarah and I set out Saturday mid-morning on the train from Jinju. Upon arrival, we decided we were more in the mood to check out a camping spot along the river a ten minute walk away, and maybe even go for a swim on the hot, sticky day.
We found ourselves walking along the river on a dirt road toward an outstretch of semi-flat rock that looked promising, which also happened to be occupied by some middle-aged men swimming. We first did a walk-by, before turning around and heading down the trail toward the rocks. Did I mention the men were initially naked? Shamelessly naked. Thankfully they clothed themselves--in their brief--before we got down to the water...
As is often the case, these Korean men were interested in utilizing their "English skills" and immediately started a conversation. One thing led to another, and we soon found ourselves getting a ride from them back up to the waterfall to grab our belongings and take them back down to the rock to set up 'camp' and go for a swim.
Over the next few hours we shared beer (or, as one Korean man declared, "party time"), the refreshing river water and the best tasting beef I've had in Korea (beef is a rarity in this country, as it's dominated by the other white meat--pork). Turns out, one of the men, in his 50s, is a "rich man" (according to "party time" man), and owns peach and cattle farms, as well as a huge restaurant out in the country. His friend showed up with three trays of beautiful, plum, red beef piled high that we grilled up in a pan over a gas stove and dipped in ssamjang (see here).
With a few more swims and a lot of laughs in between, Sarah and I soon found ourselves in a car with Im-Su, Mr. Park Big (the "rich man") and Mr. Park Small. They wanted to take us to a norae-bang (karaoke room) and dinner in the city of Suncheon, about 30 minutes south.
Now, before anyone goes on thinking that I put myself in some sketchy, dangerous situation, stop. Stop there. Traveling has taught me that there are a lot of good people in the world, no matter where you are, and that (at least as Americans) we are socialized to be so scared of strangers and have absolutely no trust in them. I've hitchhiked in Mongolia, taken free rides in Korea, followed strangers into the secluded countryside of The Philippines, followed a young man in Belize down a dark street to an empty house, and stayed in complete stranger's house in Guatemala. And you know what I've gotten out of each of these experiences? A free ride that included a stop-over at a ger restaurant and creamy yak butter on cookies, great conversation, one of the best memories of my life swimming in a secluded green pool of water beneath a beautiful waterfall, the most memorable meal of my entire 3.5 months in Central America and Mexico, and three days and two nights of a comfortable place to sleep--complete with an astonishing view of Lake Atitlan and the many volcanoes that surround it.
With that said, however, rest assured I am not naive and don't (usually) put myself in a stupid position where danger and I may in fact cross paths. And, though keeping in mind that anything can happen anywhere, THIS IS KOREA. Korea, where the biggest threat to my life is being a pedestrian on a Korean street, and the biggest threat to my person is an old, drunk ajoshi (the term for middle-aged Korean men) who can't walk straight and might accidentally shoulder me as we pass.
But, moving on...
We ended up indulging ourselves in a $400 lobster dinner with Im-Su and Mr. Park (who, as a side note, have both spent time in North Korea fighting for democracy and unification). The waitress, a manager and another patron who is a Korean English teacher in the area joined us off and on all evening for a drink or two. We truly are of celebrity status here sometimes.
I think the photos will do a good enough job rounding out this tale:
Oh, and the next morning Im-Su insisted on taking us to breakfast at his mother's countryside restaurant so he could show us photos from his trip to North Korea. So, below you'll see our complete Korean breakfast--complete with breakfast beer.
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