Unexpected Adventures: The $400 Lobster Dinner

It's been a while since my last "unexpected adventure" here in Korea, and this most recent one couldn't have come at a better time...

With the intention of joining some friends for a rock climbing weekend at one of our favorite crags, Yongseo Pokpo ("Forgiveness Waterfall), my friend Sarah and I set out Saturday mid-morning on the train from Jinju. Upon arrival, we decided we were more in the mood to check out a camping spot along the river a ten minute walk away, and maybe even go for a swim on the hot, sticky day.

We found ourselves walking along the river on a dirt road toward an outstretch of semi-flat rock that looked promising, which also happened to be occupied by some middle-aged men swimming. We first did a walk-by, before turning around and heading down the trail toward the rocks. Did I mention the men were initially naked? Shamelessly naked. Thankfully they clothed themselves--in their brief--before we got down to the water...

As is often the case, these Korean men were interested in utilizing their "English skills" and immediately started a conversation. One thing led to another, and we soon found ourselves getting a ride from them back up to the waterfall to grab our belongings and take them back down to the rock to set up 'camp' and go for a swim.

Over the next few hours we shared beer (or, as one Korean man declared, "party time"), the refreshing river water and the best tasting beef I've had in Korea (beef is a rarity in this country, as it's dominated by the other white meat--pork). Turns out, one of the men, in his 50s, is a "rich man" (according to "party time" man), and owns peach and cattle farms, as well as a huge restaurant out in the country. His friend showed up with three trays of beautiful, plum, red beef piled high that we grilled up in a pan over a gas stove and dipped in ssamjang (see here).

With a few more swims and a lot of laughs in between, Sarah and I soon found ourselves in a car with Im-Su, Mr. Park Big (the "rich man") and Mr. Park Small. They wanted to take us to a norae-bang (karaoke room) and dinner in the city of Suncheon, about 30 minutes south.

Now, before anyone goes on thinking that I put myself in some sketchy, dangerous situation, stop. Stop there. Traveling has taught me that there are a lot of good people in the world, no matter where you are, and that (at least as Americans) we are socialized to be so scared of strangers and have absolutely no trust in them. I've hitchhiked in Mongolia, taken free rides in Korea, followed strangers into the secluded countryside of The Philippines, followed a young man in Belize down a dark street to an empty house, and stayed in complete stranger's house in Guatemala. And you know what I've gotten out of each of these experiences? A free ride that included a stop-over at a ger restaurant and creamy yak butter on cookies, great conversation, one of the best memories of my life swimming in a secluded green pool of water beneath a beautiful waterfall, the most memorable meal of my entire 3.5 months in Central America and Mexico, and three days and two nights of a comfortable place to sleep--complete with an astonishing view of Lake Atitlan and the many volcanoes that surround it.

With that said, however, rest assured I am not naive and don't (usually) put myself in a stupid position where danger and I may in fact cross paths. And, though keeping in mind that anything can happen anywhere, THIS IS KOREA. Korea, where the biggest threat to my life is being a pedestrian on a Korean street, and the biggest threat to my person is an old, drunk ajoshi (the term for middle-aged Korean men) who can't walk straight and might accidentally shoulder me as we pass.

But, moving on...

We ended up indulging ourselves in a $400 lobster dinner with Im-Su and Mr. Park (who, as a side note, have both spent time in North Korea fighting for democracy and unification). The waitress, a manager and another patron who is a Korean English teacher in the area joined us off and on all evening for a drink or two. We truly are of celebrity status here sometimes.

I think the photos will do a good enough job rounding out this tale:









Oh, and the next morning Im-Su insisted on taking us to breakfast at his mother's countryside restaurant so he could show us photos from his trip to North Korea. So, below you'll see our complete Korean breakfast--complete with breakfast beer.

Hot Hot Heat

In Korea, they can use the lunar calendar to predict the three hottest days of summer. Really, they can... ;)

Chobok, Joongbok, and Malbok are the first, middle and last hot days in the summer, respectively. These days fall during the month-long "boknal," the hottest period of the year (and roughly translates to "the dog days of summer"). Boknal comes right after the two-week to one month long rainy period, jangma (and rain it did).

This year's Chobok fell on July 14, just two days ago. On this day it is customary to eat one of two dishes: samgyetang or chueotang, both hot soups. Samgyetang, one of my favorite Korean dishes, is chicken soup made with ginseng and jujube, with the small whole chicken stuffed with rice and other flavors. Chueotang is ground mudfish soup (yes, this sounds terrible but the flavor is actually spectacular!).

Koreans believe that during hot weather, our bodies are weakened so these soups will give our bodies strength. It is also believed that when we sweat our body temperature decreases, which causes damage to the liver and stomach. So, by eating hot soup it prevents the internal damage and replenishes our appetites. Or, as the common saying goes here, "It's good for your health!"

And yes, it is HOT here in the ROK.

The Rain is Upon Us

The rainy season supposedly started a few weeks ago here in Korea, but had hardly anything to show for itself--until yesterday. For the first time in a while, I decided to stay in Jinju for the weekend for a little R&R. I woke up early Saturday to sounds of thunder and torrential sounding rain outside, the latter of which didn't let up until sometime in the middle of Saturday night. Now, Sunday morning, though overcast, the skies are bright and the streets are drying. Yet, the forecast still calls for rain and thunderstorms...

I couldn't think of a better way to spend a dark, rainy day than in a new little cafe with some friends and a few puzzles before browsing the local bookstore? It's strange--I never realized that I missed the rain (and never would have expected it), but there was something comforting about the darkness that overtook the day, getting wet and sticky, and, of course, the sound of heavy raindrops falling all day long. Perhaps it is the Oregonian in me ;)

The cafe, Kitchen Suomi, owned by a young woman, was playing music by Mediaevil Baebes, an all-female group who create beautiful medieval sounding music and sing in over fifteen languages. It may sound odd, but their music is beautiful; I haven't stopped listening to it the entire weekend... Check it out on youtube if you feel so inclined.

On an unrelated note, I have been neglectful to my writing. As usual, no surprises there. It's been a busy spring over here in the Pearl City. I've taken on things this year that I didn't last year, spending some weeks taking Korean classes in the evenings and doing some one-on-one tutoring in my free time, among other things. Life has always felt busy in Korea, but this spring it reached a whole new level of busy. Things should settle down after summer vacation, though. Then again, my next plan is to spend my evenings taking Taekwando classes until I leave Korea, so maybe not...

I shall try to be more attentive for the duration of my five months in Korea... :)