Friday, June 8, 2012

The Little Things

I've expressed many a frustration here before, but right now I'm more in the mood to talk about a few of the good little things in Korea that I will certainly miss when I leave...

Food delivery--even McDonald's delivers over here! You can order anything from (Korean) Chinese food, to a variety of more traditional Korean dishes (e.g., bibimbap, kimbap), to Korean fried chicken (which, folks, is THE best chicken you'll ever have in your life, guaranteed). Now, I know you're thinking "Okay Steph, that's great. We can order food in America, too." BUT, the best part of ordering food like this? It comes in reusable plastic dishes and when you're all finished, all you have to do is put everything (even the trash if you really want!) in a pile outside your door and the same motorcycle delivery man will return about an hour later to pick up your mess! We've even ordered to the outdoor artificial climbing wall in town... Yeah, pretty awesome. Oh, and most often any food orders come with complimentary Pepsi, Coke or cider (the Korean equivalent to Sprite or 7Up).

Cheap transportation. A bus ticket to Seoul (3.5 hours) costs around $20; a ticket to the coast town an hour south of me $3; and, a ticket to Busan, Korea's second largest city an hour and a half east of Jinju a whoppin' $7. An hour-long ferry ride maybe around $5. A taxi all the way across town is no more than $7-8. A taxi from my current residence to downtown will cost me around $4-5.

No tipping--for ANYTHING. Not in taxis. Not for a haircut. Not even in restaurants. Enough said.

Cheap haircuts (and other beauty services, for that matter). I've not paid more than about $12 for a haircut in Korea--with the exception of when a friend and I made a special trip out to the big city of Busan to get a haircut from a woman who spent many years living and cutting hair in Canada (I paid about $30 for that cut, but it was worth it because Koreans definitely have a different idea about hairstyle here AND Asian hair is in fact quite different than Caucasian hair). I've known people in Korea to get eyelash extensions, laser hair removal, or other such things for cheap. Getting acupuncture, seeing a chiropractor, getting a massage--all extremely cheap compared to the US of A.

Cheap motels. I've paid as little as about $5 for one night in a motel (if it's being shared by multiple people). On average, when I travel to another town and share a room with a few people, I will pay about $10 for one night. And this is even possible in the big booming metropolis that is Seoul. Very few motels force a check-out time on you (in fact, I've only ever been told to check out once or twice in my two and a half years here). Most motels are family-run and operated, and people in the smaller motels are typically beyond friendly. Motel rooms here come with a mini-fridge stocked with water and a few cans of soda, juice and/or coffee. Rooms always have a collection of lotion, aftershave, and hair products. Quite often you'll be handed a little packet that includes a toothbrush, razor and mini shampoo and soap packets. There's always toothpaste in the bathroom. My favorite variety of motel here in Korea (sometimes called a minbak) is that which doesn't have a bed, but instead loads of blankets and pillows to sleep on the floor with. So many good times have been had on weekends piling in about eight friends into the same room for one big slumber party.


Medical services--they're easy AND cheap. All you've got to do is go into a clinic or hospital of choice (hospital in Korea can just be a large medical center), go to the counter and tell them you want to see a doctor, wait for about 10-30 minutes and then get shuffled in to the doc's office. About five minutes later after very few questions and definite language barriers (though, not as bad as anywhere else in Korea), you'll walk about with some type of prescription (after paying your $5 fee for the visit), in which case you'll pay under $10, often much less, for three days worth of a variety of meds. Not always reassuring, but convenient nonetheless!

Cheap alcohol, and drinking in the streets. A bottle of soju, $1. A bottle of makgeoli (rice wine), $1. A Korean beer, $1-2. All of these are convenience store prices, by the way... And the great thing? If you're out on a nice summer evening, you can stop by any convenience store (there are two on every corner), grab a drink, and then continue to mosey on your way through the streets. Or, if you prefer, you can have a seat at one of the plastic tables outside and watch the world pass by (and more than likely end up in some 'conversation' with drunken Koreans).


Sharing is caring. What's mine is yours. Mi casa es tu casa. There's nothing quite like communal eating. Really. It's a practice I hope to somehow hold on to when I leave this country. Ordering a dish between four people, cooking it right there in front of you and eating out of it together is a magical thing. Okay, slight over-statement, but it really is lovely and this is definitely one of the things I will miss the most about Korea...

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Happy Birthday, Buddha!

Another three-day weekend in Korea has come and gone, and yet again I find myself basking in thoughts like "How did I get so lucky?" and "Man, life is good!" Thanks to the Buddha's Birthday holiday, six friends and myself were able to escape a bit further away than usual to an island off the south coast called Bogil-do. Two years ago, about the same number of friends and I found a little secluded beach on this same island on the same holiday... Only one of those friends was with me this time around, but we had an equally amazing weekend as we enjoyed good food, good company and perfect weather. A few pictures:

The ferry ride over to Bogil-do, after several hours on a bus.

Hummus, couscous, feta salad and red wine... Happiness.

Girly entertainment on the beach.

Upon arrival to the beach, we were less than enthused about these big ugly floaty things... They soon became a favorite spot to ride the waves and have a dance party.

Dana and I enjoying our $7 hammocks that we purchased in India.

The beach was covered in these beautiful little shells.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Teacher's Day

Yesterday was Teacher's Day in Korea, and WOW do university students take this far more seriously than my middle school boys ever did! I've raved about my class on here before, and they just continue to give me reason to do just that. Last night I went into my class for our third and final period for the evening and found a few of my students missing (I knew they were up to something, since many of my co-workers had already been showered with cakes and flowers from students during previous classes). We carried on with a little small talk until my students returned with a cake and candles. They turned off the lights, sang me some 'congratulations' song and--my favorite thing--turned over all of their name tags on the walls of the classroom to reveal a message they'd spelled out on the back "We love you Stephanie." So special.

They also gave me a little paper signed by all of them, reading the following messages:

"Hello, Stephanie <3 I'm Suin. Happy Teacher's Day. LoL LoL. You are a good teacher! :)" 

"Hello, I'm Gyeong-Taek. Today is teacher's day. I want you have a good teacher's day! Thank you very much, teacher."

 "Hi Step. first I'm so sorry, because I didn't attend our class recently. Second I think that our class so happy for you. End thank you for coming our class. Do Yoon"

 "Stephanie ZZANCT!! Hello Stephanie!!! I'm Eun-Ji. Today is teacher's day. Thanks and I love you. Bye Bye <3"

"Teacher! I'm Leah. Today is Teacher's day. Until now I was very bad student. I did bad thing to me. I reconsidered and From now on I will do study on and on. your teaching is cool and warm. very thanks :)"

 "Hi, Stephanie! When you came in here at first, You smiled with your eyes to us. I thought that your smile is perfect to make us happy. Thanks, about you're class 7's teacher. I love U! Jisu" 

"Stephanie! Hi!! I'm Yeon Jeong ^o^ Thank you <3 I Love You <3 Bye!! >.<"

"Hi, Stephanie! I'm Sun Hwa. I'm really glad to meet you. Although we have almost one month. I want to make awesome memories. After our class ends, I want to contact with you. Happy teacher's day! thanks for your teaching. I love you <3"

"Happy Teacher's Day. Hi Teacher <3 I love U <3 <3 so much ;D ~~ <3 <3 Always thank U my pretty teacher <3 I wish you allllways HAPPY <3 <3 <3 alllways SMILE. You are the Best teacher for me! hihi :) I <3 U! Miju"

"Happy Teachers day! I love you~ Se-Young"

"Teacher <3 <# I love you~:) You are so beautiful. Minah"

"Teacher~<3 Thank you so much! Happy Today! Bora"

"Hi <3 Stephanie! I was fortunate to have a teacher as wonderful as you are. I love you. HyeonJin"

"Teacher I usually late very sorry Teacher I love you! Jang Hyeon"

"Hello Stephanie~I want to express my gratitude mind. but I don't speak english very well. So I'm sorry. but I love you. bye~ I'm Yumi"

"It's such a great pleasure to get to know you~^.^ SeRim"

"Stephanie.... I'm hungry... ^.^ I hope to have a class meeting one more time with you! Always thank you. and I'm happy. Sang Jun"




Ajummas Gettin' Down on the Train

There are a lot of things about living in Korea that are undeniably a huge factor in why I stay here, starting with the food (after 2.5 years, I still love and crave it on a regular basis!). I have met some incredible people and made some life-long friends. Teaching has been surprisingly enjoyable--I love it more than I ever knew I would. This tiny little peninsula that is South Korea is made up of mountain after rocky mountain and comes alive with color in the spring, summer and fall, and offers thousands of islands to explore. The big cities are busy and full of life, and the small towns are quaint and authentic (and full of old people!). The list goes on, but by far, my favorite thing about living here has been the people I meet during my weekend (and often everyday) adventures throughout this country.

I can't even begin to explain what exactly it is I mean and my writing will never do these experiences justice--it'll never capture the true energy that comes out of people, the laughs, the (sometimes awkward) exchanges that occur across language barriers, the happiness, the curiosity, the warmth and hospitality, the new (although temporary) bonds that are formed...

But, I'll do my best by sharing a few stories from the past week...

My friend Dana's brother (a recent college grad) has been visiting for the past week so we've been trying our hardest to show him what life is all about in Korea. Last Tuesday night we took him to a makgeolli (Korean rice wine) house near the university. The makgeolli is good, but it's the food and atmosphere that really brings us there--namely, the fatty tuna, kimchi and tofu, and kimchi pancakes. Anyway, so the five of us were enjoying food, drink and good company, occasionally laughing at how loud and crazy the four guys next to us were getting. Then, out of the blue, one of the guys pulls out a package and from that package a little ring box. One of us made a comment about it so the guy showed us the ring inside and told us how it was for his girlfriend for their one-year anniversary. However, his friends proceeded to inform us that she'd broken up with him the day before. Poor guy (though, he didn't seem too sad about it).

And this is where the budding friendship becomes solidified and our two groups are attached for the rest of the night...

Moving forward, through many a shared drink and laugh, these guys invited us to join them in a noraebang (karaoke room). We couldn't have been happier to join in the fun.

This was actually my first time in a noraebang with university age Korean guys, and what a treat it was. To really appreciate what this experience was for us, you must understand the nature of k-pop, and of masculinity, in this country. I'll let you do your own research if you're so inclined, but I'll tell you this much: K-pop is very 'poppy', cheesy, and often associated with very specific dances that most young Koreans can dance on the spot for you; and, young Korean men are quite feminine, stylish and have no shame in knowing and dancing to these songs.

This is exactly what we got last Tuesday night--three young university students dancing and singing to incredibly cheesy songs and performing the corresponding dance moves that go along. Needless to say, we learned a few moves ourselves that night!








Fast-forward to the weekend and we find ourselves at one of our favorite rock climbing spots--Yongseo Pokpo (this is the same place I went when I met the men who took a friend and I out to a $400 lobster dinner). We had a typical weekend of good climbing, making a few Korean friends at the falls, a campfire, cooking outdoors and countless shared laughs. When it was time for the weekend to come to and end and we boarded the train to head back to Jinju, we were all on a big of a high from such a great weekend.

Little did we know, the weekend wasn't quite finished with us yet...

Dana, her brother Kerry, our friend Kirsten and myself had found ourselves a seat in a smaller than usual car that had a row of seats along the sides of the train car, just like a subway (rather than the forward facing, two rows of two seats in the regular cars). An obviously slightly drunk middle-aged Korean man walked through a few times, and each time would stop at Dana's brother, smile and feel his muscles saying the Korean word for "pretty." Finally, on about his fourth time through our car, the man pulled Kerry and myself by our wrists and took us to the adjoining car to introduce us to all his travel companions (most likely they'd all been hiking somewhere, as they were decked out in all the brightly colored gear Koreans like to wear in the mountains). He made one guy get out of his seat and had Kerry sit, placing me on the arm of the chair. Conversation was typical of these situations, fragmented English phrases mixed in with Korean that I can understand, asking questions like "Where are you from?", "How old are you?" and the like. In the meantime, between Kerry and I, we had two beers, a can of sport drink, a yogurt, several slices of pear, handfuls of sugar-coated peanuts AND a bunch of grapes handed over to us by the folks in this guy's party. Kerry and I were all smiles the entire time and after probably about 20 minutes of this madness we were sent on our way, back to our little car, and forgotten about. It was the type of thing that leaves us, as foreigners, loving Korea and its people.

And you think this is where the fun ended?

Not much after this, the train stopped and a rush of people got on. My friend and I gave up our seats to a group of elderly women who were getting on, and sat on the ground at the feet of our friends. No longer than about 30 seconds later some Koreans stood us up, spread out some mats on the floor and sat us back down. Joining us wasn't even a question--it just happened. I suddenly had Korean men sitting on either side of me in our circle. There were people sitting in every foot of space in this mini-train car, talking and laughing, it was chaos! And it only took about two minutes before the beer and makgeolli were being poured and passed around along with all sorts of snacks. Even the little old ladies (two separate groups of them) were being given snacks and drinks by these people.

Turns out, this group of folks all graduated from the same elementary school and were 50 years old in Korean age (which means 48-49 years old otherwise). Koreans tend to keep in regular touch with classmates from all ages. It was loud and crazy, and tons of fun interacting with all of these people. I can't even begin to describe the atmosphere, but I caught a glimpse of it on video that I'll try to post here. Somehow they had us sing them a song ("Build Me Up Buttercup") and it didn't take too long before the little old ladies were singing their own songs for us. Everyone was clapping, and laughing and smiling, it was incredible! The first woman decided sitting and singing wasn't enough, so she stood up and started dancing while she sang. Not long after a second and then a third little old lady sang and danced for us as well. We were all having the time of our lives. And, the last lady to sing and dance for us was 83 years old!

Despite my terrible description of this event, you still might be able to imagine just how happy this left us feeling and when we got off the train and went to a local barbecue restaurant we were still all smiles, going off about how amazing our weekend had been.

Yes, this pretty much sums up about 75% of my weekends in this country for the past 2.5 years... And you wonder why I stay... :-D









Monday, May 7, 2012

Paragraphs: A simple concept, yet...

Blogger has changed their format, and of all things, I can't seem to figure out how to publish my text in paragraphs. When I write, I use paragraphs. When my writing is published on this blog, the paragraphs seem to disappear. So, sorry for the large mass of text...

Sunday, May 6, 2012


I love my class. Honestly, I do. I've loved them from the beginning, but I love them more and more by the week and I don't know how I'm going to say goodbye to them in five weeks. I have 17 students in my class; four boys and thirteen girls. Most of them are freshman or sophomores, and they come from all majors--agriculture, international trade, law, computer sciences, linguistics (and German), information statistics, biology, geography education, food nutrition, physical sciences education, architecture and management information systems. Our class dynamics just work--the shy balanced with the outgoing, the higher level with the lower. I don't know how I'm going to start next semester with an entirely new group! Last Friday a few other teachers and myself joined forces first period and took our three classes outdoors to play a game that might be described best as a variation of human netball (it was each team against the other two and each team had to throw the ball into their own basket, held up by a team member standing on a chair). They loved it--and it was the perfect beginning of the end to a week where our lessons revolved around health and fitness. When I came back to my class third period three of my students were missing and I was informed that they'd gone to the on-campus convenience store to buy snacks for an impromptu party. They returned with a bag of ice creams for all and about ten bags of various chips and other crunchy snacks (so much for the previous day's discussion about healthy living!). So we passed around the ice cream, opened it up and my students said "Okay teacher. Study time." So, we studied for a bit doing some listening comprehension exercises. After those were complete we opened all the snacks, had a little chat time, and then again they said "Okay, time for study." So, the 50 minutes continued on just so. Eat, talk, study. Eat, talk, study. It's no wonder I couldn't resist buying cans of A&W Root Beer when I was in Seoul this past weekend so I could make my class root beer floats! I can't wait to spoil them :)

Saturday, May 5, 2012

A Gift from China and Mongolia


It's yellow dust season in Korea, which only means one thing (okay, two things): throat irritation and beautiful spring weather! If you can't fathom what "yellow dust season" looks like in Korea, I'll try to post a picture soon. But in the meantime, see here and picture a layer of, well, fine yellow dust all over cars, windows and other flat surfaces. After any rain that falls there's a nice outline of the stuff, about the color of a yellow Post-It note, where puddles once were or where water gathered around the edges of the sidewalks and roads. This morning I had to wipe off a layer from my bicycle seat so I didn't have a yellow bum! The days have been rotating between cloudy, grey, gloomy, rainy and depressing days and bright, happy, sunny, warm and inspiring days. There really has been no middle ground. And today has been one of those inspiring days. My friend (who lives on the opposite end of town) and I met halfway on the riverside bike path for a little picnic of cheese, crackers, homemade granola bars, peanut butter sandwiches, fruit and veggies and then sat out to enjoy the sunshine by the river. It was glorious! The entire ride to meet my friend I was so happy; it was one of those moments in my life where everything just seemed right. And, I had a good, out-loud chuckle to myself when I cycled past what I've decided to be one of my favorite things about Korea: an old man driving a mini tractor or three-wheeler of sorts, pulling an old woman on the cart behind him. Usually you'd see this when you're out in the countryside and it's still an amusing sight--it just happened to be extra amusing in a city setting along a riverside bike path! And, it's much entertaining in person--trust me! May the beautiful weather and cheerful dispositions continue!